What it's like surfing giant waves with XXL Big Wave Paddle Award Winner Derek Dunfee

@derekdunfee is a XXL big wave paddle award winner, photographer whose work has graced the cover of The Surfer's Journal, and published a riveting book about his big wave surfing journey called Waking Up in the Sea. In this interview we go deep into everything from him cutting his teeth at Cloudbreak and Hawaii, his initial forays into surfing proper big waves at Mavericks including the award winning wave that changed his life forever, to his near drowning at Cortez Bank and how that inspired a pivot to photography, his recent book, and his mission to raise awareness around concussions. Along the way we cover his advice to beginner surfers, how to deal with fear, holding your breath in bigger waves, the importance of having a mentor, and many other nuggets of wisdom to help take your surfing to the next level whether you're surfing 1 ft waves or 60 ft waves.