The value of watching old surf films
Surfing has witnessed an incredible evolution over the years. However, taking a look back and watching classic surf films offers a unique perspective that can't be found in modern flicks. These films offer a window into the roots of the sport and the essentials of power surfing, which are sometimes lost amidst today's flashy, aerial maneuvers. This isn’t some unique learning technique that I discovered either. Listen to any pro surfer talk about what they do to get stoked for surfing and they’ll tell you about how they’ll watch the old surf films they grew up watching endlessly in the days before social media.
The long, drawn-out maneuvers seen in vintage surf movies offer a more realistic portrayal of surfing for the average surfer. Watching legends like Tom Curren seamlessly glide across J Bay’s waves, maintaining a relaxed and poised form, serves as an inspiration. His low stance, relaxed arms, and undeniable style aren't just aesthetics; they're fundamental techniques. Observing these attributes provides not just a lesson in elegance but also showcases a (somewhat more) attainable goal for many surfers. If you haven’t seen this clip of Tom Curren surf his first wave at J Bay it is a must watch: https://youtu.be/rxNdqwplnog?si=JQAZE9ok-blMZzP9&t=54
The surfboards from past eras were significantly different from today's finely tuned Ferrari’s. With more length and volume, the boards required a different approach. Their limitations in terms of maneuverability and speed made surfers rely heavily on their skills and wave knowledge. This held the surfers back in terms of what they could do, but also those kinks made their surfing more relatable. You can see sometimes how they’ll have several stages through their turn, and this can be helpful for anyone trying to break that turn down into pieces. For anyone currently riding a board with more volume, this older style of surfing can feel especially relevant and achievable.
Conclusion
In an age of rapid progression and innovation in the surfing world, it’s essential not to forget the foundations that built the sport. Watching old surf films isn't just a nostalgic journey; it's a lesson in the fundamental techniques of good surfing. Whether it's to understand the history, refine techniques, or find inspiration, there's tremendous value in revisiting the classics.
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